Whirling eagles and vultures, sheer limestone gorges, huge steppe grasslands of uncooked magnificence the place endangered Przewalski’s horses, straight out of prehistoric cave work, and slinking grey shapes of wolves, take refuge – it’s arduous to imagine this true wilderness is comfortably in attain of the coast and cities of Southern France.
For individuals who wish to see the wild elements of France with out having to enter the excessive mountains, head in direction of Florac within the coronary heart of the Cévennes Nationwide Park. Hike to experience its landscapes and wildlife, go to its museums to bear witness to poignant battles for non secular freedom, and stand nonetheless in time seeing farmers and their goats working with the tough nature as they’ve for 1000’s of years.
And at day’s finish, wander by means of chestnut forests to hear for the “phantom of the forests” underneath the expanse of stars in Europe’s greatest darkish sky reserve. Unbelievable experiences await you at Cévennes Nationwide Park – here is the best way to get there and what to do while you arrive.
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Expertise the rhythm of historical farming life
The mixture of goat bells chiming from steep slopes and darting sheep canines cleverly doing their work with Cévenol farmers makes you are feeling linked to a whole lot of previous generations. The 3000-year-old agro-pastoralism custom is what obtained the park its Unesco standing for example of a residing and evolving cultural panorama. Be a part of this by rounding up goats, serving to with milking, and making cheese at one of many oldest eco-museums in France and the Farm des Cévennes. Between June and September, a variety of different farms open their gates to guests.
Don’t miss the transhumance, the seasonal motion of animals between summer time and winter pastures, in early June in Espérou. This is among the final locations the place shepherds nonetheless drive their animals on foot (fairly than in vans) alongside drailles, ancestral paths that run by means of the park. You’ll be hypnotized by the sight of a whole lot of sheep working by means of villages, carrying pink pom-poms, accompanied by music and plenty of good meals.
Cévennes Nationwide Park has unbelievable hikes for each health stage © Westend61 / Getty Photographs
Hike by means of wilderness and historical past
The park has greater than 5000 km of paths of all lengths and boasts 300 one-day hikes the place spectacular views of the Mediterranean plains are simple to get from Mount Lozère or Mount Aigoual. Or set off on one of many many 2-3 day circuits alongside sheer gorges the place hovering vultures will make your coronary heart sing. For straightforward walks for all of the household, take the sentiers de decouverte, Interpretative Trails, which discover topics like native heritage, geology or botany and hunt down menhirs and birds.
A number of of France’s GR long-distance strolling trails cross by means of the park. Probably the most well-known follows the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey from Puy en Velay in direction of the Mediterranean. Wend your approach over heath-like hills lined in broom wildflowers and thru hidden valleys with quiet stone villages every with a story of the historic previous. Pont-de-Montvert, near the supply of the Tarn river, is among the finest preserved, with an interesting historical past. Stevenson’s e-book Travels with a Donkey within the Cévennes is an ideal companion alongside the way in which. This was additionally the spot the place the Camisard Warfare began in 1702.
Plunge into the historical past of spiritual rebels
The wild hills noticed an interesting a part of European historical past when Protestant Cévenol peasants, camisards, turned to armed revolt after 1685 when Louis XIV clamped down on Protestant non secular freedom. Warfare occurred between 1702-1704 and a whole lot of villages within the area had been destroyed.
Engross your self within the story of spiritual freedom and repression within the Musée du Désert in the home of the well-known camisard chief, Rolland, aka Pierre Laporte. The shows are in French however a pamphlet with English translation is supplied. Really feel transported again as you stroll round a typical kitchen and bed room from the time and amongst work of the key congregations within the forests and caves within the hills. See the foldable pulpits and the gathering of secret bibles.
Be a humble witness to a wall the place Huguenots snatched their place in historical past by painstakingly
recording the identify of each man despatched to the galleys and the way they died. Be impressed by the tales of the ladies who by no means deserted their religion and had been despatched to a jail close to Montpellier, one in every of whom wrote letters from there for 37 years. The museum will change your concepts on what the phrases freedom and power of character imply.
Plunge deeper into the area’s historical past within the coal mining museum within the post-industrial city of La Grand’Combe or the museum on the area’s silk business in Saint-Hippolyte-du-Fort.
Maintain a watch out for Przewalski’s horses roaming freely within the park © Serge Goujon / Shutterstock
Spot vultures, wild horses and hear for the roar
The park has a very excessive variety of plant and animal species as a consequence of its numerous landscapes and climates. Earlier than you go, spend a while on-line on the park’s in-depth atlas, which supplies info together with soundtracks and maps with the most recent sightings.
On the Maison des Vautours, take within the plunging view on the Jonte Gorge, be taught in regards to the profitable reintroduction of the vultures, then elevate your head to see their black circling shapes, falcons and possibly the magnificent royal eagle. Get again right down to floor stage at Micropolis, simply outdoors of the park, the place you’ll be able to spy on the fascinating insect world.
Journey into the vastness of the Causse Méjean for a uncommon likelihood to see Przewalski’s horses, the world’s solely horses by no means to have been domesticated. They died out within the wild within the Sixties and have been let out right here to readapt earlier than being reintroduced to the Mongolian steppes.
In September and October, pack a torch and dare into the nightfall on Mont Aigoual to hear for the “phantoms of the forest”. Nothing beats strolling on hills in the dead of night and listening to the unusual roaring of the stags throughout the breeding season. A number of locations set up outings together with the Maison de l’Aigoual.
Star-gaze in Europe’s greatest Worldwide Darkish Sky Reserve
Journey as much as the highest of Mount Aigoual or Mount Lozère for sundown and admire the gorgeous views out in direction of the ocean and the Pyrenees. When evening arrives, hear for the chip chip of flitting bats, the hoots of owls and see the spectacular expanse of stars.
If it’s August, look out for the annual Perseid meteor bathe. For devoted star lovers, there are organized climbing journeys led by an astrophysicist and one guesthouse has constructed a keep round star-gazing, offering telescopes and initiations to constellations.
Marvel on the staggering inside of the Demoiselles Cave © Getty Photographs / iStockphoto
Journey out of time underground
It’s not strictly within the park, however Demoiselles Cave is value visiting when you’re driving in from the southeast. Guided visits take you in Europe’s first underground vacationer funicular. Be amazed by an immense cathedral-like cavern stuffed with stalactites and stalagmites which have shaped over 1000’s of years into stone forests, petrified mushroom clouds and hanging daggers.
What and the place to eat in Cévennes Nationwide Park
The folks of the Cévennes as soon as lived off chestnuts, the so-called “bread tree” as a result of it saved them in scarce occasions. Purchase them at markets preserved in jars, cooked over coals or scrumptious with cream within the Cévenol soup. Don’t miss the Chestnut Festivals, particularly in Lasalle and Anduze, in Autumn that are an actual spectacle of passionate chestnut fans.
The area can also be well-known for pelardon, a goat cheese, solely produced within the Cévennes, which is available in small rounds from recent creamy to extremely matured and crumbly. It’s scrumptious on recent baguette and with native honey.
Native markets are an awesome place to purchase the park’s finest merchandise. One of many greatest and commonest within the southern a part of the Cévennnes is in Lasalle the place folks stream down out of remoted valleys for the day and are completely satisfied to see mates.
One of many delights within the Cevennes is unexpectedly coming throughout eating places and bars in remoted villages as neo-rurals carry new life and benefit from native merchandise with French aptitude as they do on the Balade Gourmande in tiny Soudorgues.
Easy methods to get there
The attraction of the Cévennes is its remoteness, however this makes getting there tough. The best choice is to return by automotive, employed in Montpellier or Nîmes. The roads are slender and windy, so measure distances by way of time and never kilometers. Tough entry means visiting the park for at the very least 2-3 days or longer and sticking to 1 space is healthier.
There are few everlasting bus routes, however extra choices in the summertime months with extra shuttles (navettes/automobiles). Data tends to differ with every city and village so head to the vacationer workplace web site particular to your chosen location and take a look at their transport web page, ring the native workplace or verify the Occitan transport web site. Test the date of the timetable you’re to verify it’s the most recent and watch out for adjustments to timetables throughout completely different seasons, on public holidays or weekends.
Florac is the right picturesque spot to base your self © mcpezza / Shutterstock
The place to remain in Cévennes Nationwide Park
For a selection of lodges and eating places select bigger, touristy locations like Florac, St Jean du Gard or Anduze and round Mount Lozère – it has a ski resort and is an efficient choice in winter.
Most of the smaller villages have Airbnbs and if located alongside the extra widespread climbing trails, have gîite d’étape – visitor homes. For these wanting a way of life off the vacationer path and with few facilities, head to Le Pont-de-Montvert, Le Bleymard or Sainte Croix Vallée Française. In the event you keep every week, it’s value rural guesthouses.
Campsites abound, significantly alongside the attractive Mialet and Tarn rivers, which get comparatively crowded in summer time.
Different planning suggestions
There’s a complicated profusion of internet sites and vacationer workplaces protecting the park, every equivalent to completely different administrative areas. Many villages have their very own vacationer workplace.
The very best factor is to decide on the geographic space you’ll journey to after which discover the corresponding vacationer web site or workplace. Good web sites cowl the Causses et Gorges, round Mount Lozère, and the southern edges. The park itself has a world info web site and a planning platform, in addition to three park workplaces in Florac, Aigoual and Génolhac.
Climate-wise, look out for the épisodes cévenols, intervals of extraordinarily heavy downpours normally in Autumn, which may trigger flooding and stop driving.
Many sights and facilities within the park change timetables or shut down fully in winter, so verify earlier than you go.
